Saturday, September 25, 2010

427

If my dog, Grita, has not left the garden for the day, she walks me to the front gate and watches as I descend the steps and lift the latch of the white fence. I step onto the sidewalk and relatch the squeaky metal gate, making sure not to slam it too hard. "Ciao, Grita" is the usual salutaion.
I begin the walk to my bus stop on Rivera, turing onto Francisco Solano Lopez (Ex-Comercio). I watch the familiar buses pass to the other stops on my 5 block walk, and peer into the businesses that line the street. My feet navigate the broken sidewalk, and I feel the grooves and breaks hit my boots. Being careful not to make eye contact with the sidewalk dwellers, I pass the tiny bar that is always grilling asado on the side of the street. I can see the cuts of meat and the intestines laid out above the fire. I never take the time to stand and watch anyone, knowing that I stand out enough with my light eyes and hair. Tourists are rare here, especially in this barrio, and attract pick pocketers and cat-calling. I pass by the construction zone and reach the bright green Multi-Ahorro building that denotes the bus stop corner. Walking hurridly so that I can see which buses are traveling down Rivera, I turn the corner and pass the small kiosk and take up my standing position leaning against the posts of the bus stops.
My bus passes every 10 minutes during the day, but at night it comes around about every half hour. Every once in awhile someone will ask me if a certain bus passes for that area. I usually am able to tell them, but if I can't, they automatically pick up on the fact that I'm foreign and move on to ask someone with a more uruguayan appearance. I can usually see my bus coming from far away and I hold out my hand as it pulls up to the stop. If you don't signal to the buses that you want to get on, they will drive right past your stop. I board and move to the money handler, usually trying to give them exactly 17 pesos so that I don't have to carry around spare change. I grab my ticket and take a seat near the back so I can get off easily when I want to. People board with their mate and long dark hair and I watch the buildings pass by. Graffiti covering most surfaces denoting the fans of the two soccer teams. VIVA MANYA.
Bus 427 travels fairly fast so I usually arrive in front of the giant historic tree (El Ombu) within a half hour. I make sure to hit the Parada button so that they let me off at the correct stop and deboard, making my way towards my 2nd home. I pass the bakery, which I can smell for at least a block after. There is always some type of trash on the sidewalk, and when its windy it makes small garbage tornadoes on the stones. I pass numerous dogs, stray and owned, and dodge the shit they leave all over the sidewalk. I consider myself lucky that I haven't stepped in any yet (knock on wood). There is a man that sleeps in a stairwell. He is a parking attendant during the afternoon/night and is very cordial and always says hola, leaving the cat-calling to other men. I also think he is in a constant state of inebriation considering he is either sleeping or parking cars with a giant beer in his hand. He has long brown dreads and I can always hear him laughing heartily down the block.
My eyes drop again and I watch my feet follow the lines of pushed together bricks and stones, noticing that I spend alot of time in the inbetween here. Bus stops, buses, the blocks connecting my destinations. Always in transit, but never minding it; finally enjoying the wait for once.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

My father

I got an email from dad this morning. I was studying in the silence room and laughed out loud.

Found - .28 cents
Found - numerous potato chips of various sizes and flavors and a cheeto
I will have to use these to make my next meatloaf when Rachel visits
Found - 11 pens and pencils
Bailey can lay claim to this one
Found - 1 wrapped hershey candy bar
and these below were saving for Quinn , I think we can re-mic them
Found - 100 unpopped popcorn seeds
Found - the mother load - 1 lost remote
all within the confines of the couch downstairs

signed
dad

Attached was a picture of the remote...we've been missing that thing for what seems like years forcing us to have to stand up to change the channel (gasp*).

Monday, September 20, 2010

Puede Ser

The American BBQ went fabulously. Dad, you would be soo proud of me--I made and grilled 20 DELICIOUS burgers with green onions and Worcestershire sauce and then grilled peppers and mozzerella on top...and alllll the fixin's!! ...so delicious!! We also had homemade mac n' cheese, deviled eggs, coleslaw...all homemade. :) :)
Saturday I went to El Prado with some friends. El Prado is essentially like state fair...except its for the whole country (which is actually smaller in population then Wisconsin by about 2 million). People from all over the countryside bring their animals in and there are food stands and tons of activities (minus carnival rides...and carnival workers). There was also a huge USA stand with streamers and representative of American companies like American Airlines and Harley Davidson, as well as cardboard cutouts of Zac Efron, Miley Cyrus, Uncle Sam, Obama, Mickey Mouse and the Statue of Liberty...and donuts...so strange haha. It felt really weird to walk through an exhibit representing your whole country. There was also a live band singing songs like "Surfin' USA"...with Spanish accents. Our Uruguayan friend of course made us bring mate, so as we walked around all 5 of us (3 north americans 2 Uruguayos) sipped some mate...I'm getting used to the extreme bitterness of it---I think I just love the act of sharing it! Afterwards we went to an amazing restaurant and got some reallly good food--it was around 1 am...and the restaurant was full!
Sometimes being in such a beautiful country, it can be easy to forget that it is considered 3rd world. However, when we drive through the bad parts of town, I am reminded that although I love this place, I don't always understand the "laid back" nature of the laws. Marijuana is technically illegal here, but if you have less than 2 joints on you, then you can't be prosecuted...I often smell weed just walking around or on the beach. Also, drinking in public technically isn't allowed either...but I always see people walking around with beers--its just kind of frowned upon. Prostitution is also legal, and apparently it is common knowledge that they start around 11 pm and if there is a woman at a busstop after about 1 am then she is a prostitute, because the buses don't run that late. I have only seen about 2 or 3 prostitutes when driving around with friends or on the bus coming back from Buenos Aires when we drove through a bad part of town--they stay out of nicer residencial areas. Also, whore houses are common here...I just recently learned that there is one about 4 blocks from my house...I walk by it everyday to school. Also, when speaking of petty street crime, you really have to watch out for kids ages 6-17...they are the worst criminals here because if you aren't an adult, you don't get tried for crimes. The children are protected by the law and therefore are the main cause of robbery, abuse and even murder (yes, murder). It is horribly sad because the children are driven by poverty and are simply a product of their environment. It has definitely been a tough thing for me to not trust kids, but yesterday night my friends and I were walking to a play (it was around 9 pm) and a group of about 4-5 young kids aged 6-10 walked up to us asking for coins and money. This is pretty common, but something was definitely fishy because within seconds they had all invaded our personal space and were grabbing at our purses and touching our pockets. Luckily we were with some Uruguayans who yelled at the kids and scared them away. I felt so uncomfortable because I don't feel right yelling at some very very young kids that I don't know...but at the same time, they could have easily robbed us. After they had left the Uruguayans told us that if we didn't yell at them or handle the situation quickly, they would definitely rob us in a flash. I wish it didn't have to be that way.
Last night I went to the theatre with my class and we saw "Rescatate" which was based around a robbery involving planchas. Planchas are very difficult to describe. They are very similar to a type of gangster and wear particular clothing and have a distinct way of speaking (slightly barbaric and very vulgar). Not all planchas are thieves, but almost all thieves are planchas. Most of the young kids who steal, are planchas. It is a type of fashion fad, mixed with lifestyle choices. Most planchas are a of lower economic status, but again, that is just the stereotype. The play addressed alot of the stereotypes and is very popular here--I really enjoyed it, but since it involved the plancha dialect, I was unable to understand alot of it haha.
Now I'm hanging out with Eduardo and the other exchange students and of course he is yelling at me in Spanish...love this guy haha. However, he does call me La Alegria del Mundo (the happiness of the world)...funniest/craziest old man ever.
I also finally had a chivito...AMAZING steak sandwich that is VERY popular here...alll the toppings you can imagine. DELISH.
ALSO: mom and dad come in 3 weeks---I'M SOOO AMPED!!!

Friday, September 17, 2010

BBQ

We are having a North American styled BBQ tonight---so excited!!!!!

As the weather has been getting nicer, we have been able to go to the beach almost daily...it is so gorgeous, I don't think I'll ever get sick of it!

Sorry for the short short blog--I'll update when I have some time to sit down and write!!

Much love

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Monday, September 13, 2010

Buenos Aires!

Well,

It was a packed weekend, to say the least!! Thursday morning I was almost late to the bus stop because I spent the morning in Ciudad Vieja and lost track of time (sooo typical me). So I rushed home, grabbed my stuff and took a cab to meet up with my friends. We got to the bus station about 10 mins before we were scheduled to leave and figured we'd be waiting around for about an hour because nothing starts on time here (literally even the TV shows dont start on schedule!). However, our 4:46 bus departure actually ended up being 4:45, and luckily we came on time because right as we climbed the stairs we realized we were the last ones to board and the bus was waiting for us---definitely a new feeling here!! Usually its the other way around!!
The bus was SUPER nice and it was a 2 hour ride to Colonia (a historic city right on the river)...we drove through the countryside, which honestly essentially looks like Wisconsin! We arrived (to our amazement) early at Colonia and proceeded through customs (a very easy process compared to the States) and right onto the boat. We were expecting a small ferry...but this was a huge cruise ship--really! It had a marble staircase, and amazing seating and other amenities....wow. We took the slow boat so we arrived in Buenos Aires 3 hours later.
We had to be careful about which taxi we took because there is an infamous taxi mafia..no joke. So we got a chauffuer and drove to our hostel that we had reserved for 3 nights.
However, when we got there, they told us that they did not recieve our internet reservations and that they didn't know if they had room for us... Keep in mind that our phones did not work, we did not have computers, and it was almost midnight, talk about a little freak out--what were we supposed to do?? Walk around and sleep on the streets?
Well, thankfully they had a private room that we took up and all three of us (me, Marina (Germany) and Kate (North Carolina)) were able to have a place to sleep for the night. The next night they told us we'd have to move to a different room and would have a random roommate, so we took that offer cuz we had no other option!
Thursday night we were supposed to get a nice (and cheap in BA!) steak but we couldnt find the restuarant and it isn't really safe to walk around Buenos Aires at night, so we just got some junk food from a convenience store and ate on our beds haha.
The next day we woke up early, and hit the streets armed with very little cash tucked into our bras and hidden pockets (pick pocketing is VERY prevalent here).
We took the subway to Casa Rosada and bummed around busy shopping centers. Got some AMAZING gelato :) :)
We also saw the worlds biggest street with like 20+ lanes, and a bunch of other really cool stuff (I have pictures coming!!)
We went back to the hostel, napped, and went out to eat at an INCREDIBLE steak house...it was also INSANELY cheap...!!! Later we went to a friend of Kate's who has lived in BA for over a year. We told him our situation with the hostel and he offered his couches and floor for us on Sat--perfect!! That night, Rob, Rachel, Anna and Jack all arrived but we were all soo tired that we decided not to go dancing.
The next day we met up with the others (they had stayed with a friend of Robs) and we went to the Cemetary Ricoletta which has Evita (Don't cry for me Argentina) and a ton of other very prestigious Argentinans. The whole cemetary is mausoleums and beautiful above ground graves...like you can see hundred year old caskets...crazy!!
We bummed around town again and hit up a bookstore that was actually a renovated theatre...beautiful!!!
That night, we were supposed to meet up for dinner at Rob's favorite restaurant around 9:30, but we couldn't find the restaurant! After asking a few people and circling some blocks, some waiter told us it had just closed down 2 months ago...great! So we went to a random restaurant, got some beer, popcorn and fries and then headed to another restaurant where we waiting for over an hour to be seated--this place was packed!! Around midnight we were seated and I got some AMAZING ribs and mashed potatoes....perfect!! We got to the apartment around 2:30. The night had just begun for many Argentinians (people were still pouring into the restaurant!!) but we were so exhausted that we hit the sack early!!
The next day we went to a huge feria (outdoor market) and saw much of the handicrafts of Argentinians--beautiful! Then we went to La Boca, a historically very impoverished neighborhood famous for the painted buildings and ate lunch and walked around some more. Then, Marina, Kate and I headed to the boat station and took the boat and bus back home! I arrived at my door around 11:30 and went I got inside Silvia told me dinner was on the table. Rice, soup, spinach & egg torte and apple pie!!! :) :)

I loved Buenos Aires, but almost all of the people in my group (including me) could not have been more excited to come home to Montevideo! There is almost no tourism here...which is soo nice! The lifestyle in BA is great for a weekend--face paced and beautiful, but MVD is perfect for living in. Our tiny little city of 1.7 million could not feel more like home! All weekend people were warning us to watch our pockets, OJO (watch out!!) and be very aware---well, none of us got robbed, but its so nice to be back in the city where people are trustworthy and very very friendly!!! The men in BA were also alot more...vocal...shouting HOLA HOLA HOLA out the windows at us haha. Some small boys shouted "HEY BLONDIES!! RUBIOS!! HEY!!" for almost an entire block...haha we stick out everywhere!
It was also very frustrating because everywhere we went people tried to speak English to us...which we absolutely refused to speak---we're here to learn!!!
When I got back to MVD I grabbed a cab (I didn't have to worry about taxi mafia!!) and I spent the 10 minute cab drive in rapid conversation about studying in Montevideo. We both agreed about how much friendlier everyone is in Uruguay--how great was that solidarity!

Basically: BA blew my mind, but I LOVE MVD!! :)

I'll update more later, but now I'm going home to my puppy and a home cooked meal!!

Wednesday, September 08, 2010

weekend!

I am taking a bus then boat to Buenos Aires, Argentina from tomorrow til Sunday night with some friends so I won't be updating for a bit!

And don't worry about me, I'll just be in a city of about 13 million people!!!
:)
It's going to be AMAZING.
Love

traffic

Almost all of the buses, taxis and cars I have ridden in have gone through red lights. The other day, my bus went through a red light right alongside a cop car that was doing the same thing...???
I was in a car the other day, and the guy drove through 3 consecutive stop signs---haha do these traffic symbols mean nothing here??
People speed and drive pretty crazy, and there is literally NO traffic enforcement. There are tons of motorcylcles and almost everyday there is an accident involving a motorcyclist--they are crazy here!!
I also saw on the news yesterday that 12 cars a day get stolen in Montevideo. Not tooo horrible considering it is a city of 1.5 million.
Also concerning traffic, one of my gorgeous blonde friends was walking down a sidewalk and a man was shouting at her from his car (nothing new here). However, he forgot to look ahead of him and ran right into the car in front of him....SMOOTH.

Monday, September 06, 2010

A, E, I, O, U

When Uruguayos mock the English language they make their mouths really small and imitate the different vowel sounds (the Spanish language only has 5 vowel sounds as opposed to a range of 11-20 for English vowel sounds). Eduardo says it is the language of barbarians haha. Most often my nasal Wisconsin accent gets mocked because I forget that I elongate my "a" sound so when I call my friend Juan "compadre" he usually mocks my voice back saying "cumpaiidreee jankee (yankee)" haha. They also say "Macdonalds" (for McDonalds) and laugh really hard when I pronounce it "Micdonalds" and apparently in Brasil they say "Mickidonalds"...
The other day I was talking and some random guy stopped me and said "Your accent is hilarious!!"

Its funny how the way you pronounce letters can make you such an obvious foreigner.

Thursday, September 02, 2010

Rainy

It has been raining like no other here :( but luckily I didn't have class on Tuesday so I woke up at noon, ate breakfast, did homework, took a nap, ate lunch...I think you see where this is going! Silvia definitely supports my napping/sleeping--she says I need my rest to stay healthy!! When I sleep less than 12 hours a night, she said she worries about me falling asleep in class --she definitely knows me well!!! :)
Yesterday, I had to go to my community service so I woke up around 7 (before the sun comes up if you ask me...) and waited at my bus stop in the pouring rain for about 15 mins and rode a bus about 35 mins to my stop. It was my first time taking this bus there, and I am reallllly unfamiliar with this area, so I asked a local if I had the right street. He gave me some directions to the school (different from the ones Silvia gave me) and I began my 6 block trek in INSANE WIND AND RAIN. Of course, my umbrella broke within like 2 minutes and I just had to trudge through. I walked for about 25 mins with literally NO sign of the school even though I had followed his directions perfectly (why didn't I just trust Silvia??hhaha). Not only that, but I was on side streets in a barrio, which means there were NO taxis...GREAT. So I burst out laughing on a sidewalk in the rain with a broken umbrella in South America...what else could I do? I asked several people and finally a family was able to point me in the correct direction and I arrived at the school about half hour or so after deboarding the bus.
There were only 4 kids at school instead of 24 because of the rain (the 4 who were there live with a state institution and therefore don't miss school). We had alot of fun, and I am amazed at the amount of creative energy in 4 kids...I can only imagine how insane it is going to be with all of the kids, especially because almost all of them have some time of attention disorder.
I spent the rest of the afternoon at school completely soaked, but luckily my lit class was cancelled so I went to an outlet with Kate and Marina and spent the evening at Kate's house. When I left, Eduardo asked what I was doing to which I responded, going home to eat and sleep? and he said (in Spanish) "NO you will take off your coat and stay here, there are food and beds here. You have a sickness where you think you have a host mom named Silvia, but you actually make it up and now you must live here" hahaha this guy is sooo crazy and funny. Imagine a balding South American yelling at me in Spanish...classic :)
I left anyway and as I was walking out the door Eduardo and Laura (the host parents) told me that if I didn't exist, someone would have to invent me because the world would not be the same without me. Haha these people are incredibly sweet and welcoming...I feel so blessed to have met them!
Silvia and I watch the news everynight, which I definitely look forward to. We usually make fun of everyone's hair and she randomly shoulds "Mentiras!!" (lies!!) whenever they talk about government....love it! She made an orange torte last night....SO DELICIOUS!!! I had 2 pieces at dinner and she set one out for me for breakfast :)